Monday, January 6, 2014
Not Much to Report...
Between the passing of the holidays and an abnormally severe Michigan Winter, there isn't much to report. Too cold. Too busy. And, WAY too much snow. Maybe this coming weekend I can get out into the garage when it isn't below zero out...
Thursday, November 28, 2013
It Runs!
Well, I did get it to finally start about 2 weeks ago, and it sounds great. I need to tune it at this point, but I am holding off because I first need to replace the float in the secondaries.
After solving my leak issues I found I had gas flowing up through the vent on the secondaries. After confirming the needle valve was good, it had to be related to the float. I hope to get a chance to work on that this weekend.
But in the meantime, I am able to run the engine on the primaries and plug the secondaries, and it sounds great. Very pleased!
Happy Thanksgiving!
After solving my leak issues I found I had gas flowing up through the vent on the secondaries. After confirming the needle valve was good, it had to be related to the float. I hope to get a chance to work on that this weekend.
But in the meantime, I am able to run the engine on the primaries and plug the secondaries, and it sounds great. Very pleased!
Happy Thanksgiving!
Saturday, November 9, 2013
Small Set Back...
Well, I went to fire it up, but when I kicked on the fuel pump, gas came spewing out from every connection. So I am now waiting on my new fuel regulator...
Monday, October 21, 2013
Hopefully Firing It Up This Week
Almost everything has been sorted out to fire this up (finally!)
- Oil is in and so is the coolant, and no leaks either place.
- Brake lines are run, and the new disc brake block is in place.
- The new transmission lines have been run.
- The inner fender wells are hung so I can mount the battery and new ignition.
- Power steering lines are run, and the return line has been modified for the Eaton pump.
- Radiator hoses have been run (had to do custom steel flex-hoses ... yuck!)
Left to do before starting the car...
- Finish cleaning, repairing and retaping the engine compartment harness.
- Hook up electrical in engine compartment.
- Finish running fuel line and fuel pump.
- Add trans fluid and check for leaks.
- Hook up Jacobs Electronics ignition.
- Turn key and hope is starts!
I will post more info after turning the key.
- Oil is in and so is the coolant, and no leaks either place.
- Brake lines are run, and the new disc brake block is in place.
- The new transmission lines have been run.
- The inner fender wells are hung so I can mount the battery and new ignition.
- Power steering lines are run, and the return line has been modified for the Eaton pump.
- Radiator hoses have been run (had to do custom steel flex-hoses ... yuck!)
Left to do before starting the car...
- Finish cleaning, repairing and retaping the engine compartment harness.
- Hook up electrical in engine compartment.
- Finish running fuel line and fuel pump.
- Add trans fluid and check for leaks.
- Hook up Jacobs Electronics ignition.
- Turn key and hope is starts!
I will post more info after turning the key.
Thursday, October 3, 2013
New Throttle Cable Installed!
The old throttle cable was in very poor condition, so as I work at putting things together to fire the motor, I added replacing the old one to my to-do list.
I ended up picking this up off the shelf from O'Reilly's Auto Parts for $25. Not too bad, all things considered. After removing the old cable, I cleaned up the stock bracket and bolted it in place on the intake. A couple of tweaks with the Channel Locs squared the cable up with the throttle arm on the carb.
The mounting post came in the kit and just replaced the ball-and-socket style that was on the carb. Using the existingthrottle cable hole, I mounted the new cable in place putting a couple of gentle bends in place to work around the valve cover and leave a little slack for any movement of the engine.
After measuring 37 times, I attempted to cut the cable casing with a hacksaw, as stated in the instructions. This left frayed ends on the stainless jacket, and made zero impact on the spring steel wound inner core after more than 10 minutes of cutting with a fresh blade. So, I grabbed the angle cutter with a cutoff wheel and finished the job in seconds leaving a very clean cut.
Once again I mounted up the cable casing to prep for adding the inner cable. Originally, on my vehicle, a 3/8" diameter pin was used from the factory to hook up the old cable. After about 30 seconds of drilling I realized that it was hardened and I needed a different approach to the pedal mount. I finally opted to drill the pedal. It took three tries to get just the right angle so the cable didn't drag along the lip of the aluminum fitting. No worries.
After that, it was simply a matter of inserting the steel cable, measuring, removing, cutting to length, adding it back, feeding it into the eyelet assembly and setting the set screw. I did opt to use the clunky plastic end piece that came with the kit and is supposed to be used with their special bracket assembly. I just used a small hose clamp to hold it on the end so the cable fed through the center and didn't rub on the spring steel inner core.
The finished product looks good and works great. I just need to spray a little lithium grease up the tube to keep it lubed. Probably should have done that before installing it. Oh well.
I ended up picking this up off the shelf from O'Reilly's Auto Parts for $25. Not too bad, all things considered. After removing the old cable, I cleaned up the stock bracket and bolted it in place on the intake. A couple of tweaks with the Channel Locs squared the cable up with the throttle arm on the carb.
The mounting post came in the kit and just replaced the ball-and-socket style that was on the carb. Using the existingthrottle cable hole, I mounted the new cable in place putting a couple of gentle bends in place to work around the valve cover and leave a little slack for any movement of the engine.
After measuring 37 times, I attempted to cut the cable casing with a hacksaw, as stated in the instructions. This left frayed ends on the stainless jacket, and made zero impact on the spring steel wound inner core after more than 10 minutes of cutting with a fresh blade. So, I grabbed the angle cutter with a cutoff wheel and finished the job in seconds leaving a very clean cut.
Once again I mounted up the cable casing to prep for adding the inner cable. Originally, on my vehicle, a 3/8" diameter pin was used from the factory to hook up the old cable. After about 30 seconds of drilling I realized that it was hardened and I needed a different approach to the pedal mount. I finally opted to drill the pedal. It took three tries to get just the right angle so the cable didn't drag along the lip of the aluminum fitting. No worries.
After that, it was simply a matter of inserting the steel cable, measuring, removing, cutting to length, adding it back, feeding it into the eyelet assembly and setting the set screw. I did opt to use the clunky plastic end piece that came with the kit and is supposed to be used with their special bracket assembly. I just used a small hose clamp to hold it on the end so the cable fed through the center and didn't rub on the spring steel inner core.
The finished product looks good and works great. I just need to spray a little lithium grease up the tube to keep it lubed. Probably should have done that before installing it. Oh well.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)