OK, so the other door skin just isn't going to happen. The first issue I ran into was the profile at the top of the door is different. No problem Just cut at the upper body line and replace part of the panel. It doesn't even have to be perfect since the molding will cover there.
I removed the new panel and trimmed it down. While planning the new attack on the existing door skin I held the new one up to make sure everything lined up. It did ... until I noticed that I couldn't see the door handle holes through the replacement door skin. Argh!
Apparently, on the hardtops, the door handle is moved a couple of inched inboard from the four-door models. This has officially made reskinning this door more hassle than its worth. So back to the bodywork on the original door, and we'll accept "not perfect."
In other news, I have started reassembly of the motor. I'm going to shoot for this weekend to start the car. So I cleaned out the cylinders to make sure nothing snuck in, ordered the gasket kit, put on the fuel pump cover, and I just finished doing a quicky detail of the starter and distributor.
The starter was covered in gunk and had light surface rust, while the distributor was oxidized, and 90% sprayed Ford blue. They look much better, and certainly suitable for the vehicle. The starter will be mostly hidden, so there was only minimal disassembly performed.
Tomorrow I need to pick up a new starter cable as the current one is rough. After that, drop the steering box to add the DS header and slip in the PS. Hope to post pics tomorrow!
Friday, August 30, 2013
Monday, August 12, 2013
Reskinned A Door From An Old Donor!
After fighting with the driver's door for more time than I care to admit, I finally caved and purchased a donor door that I have had my eye on for some time. It was rust-free and aside from a couple of very minor marks, dent-free.
So why didn't I just bite the bullet and buy it instead of messing around with all of the body work? Because the donor door is from a 4-door hardtop, so there are no window frames. That means I either have to move my window frames, or I have to reskin the original door.
Since my doors are very solid, and the only rust I have in any of the doors is a small hole in the corner of the door skin, and because it looks like there are a lot of ways to have things go wrong moving the frame, I opted to reskin.
Now I'll start by saying I didn't take pictures of this door, but I will be doing the DS rear door as well, and will document the work I do to that one. It will be a little harder due to the shape, so it will be a better subject. Anyhow, here's what was involved!
After looking over both doors about a dozen times to make sure measurements, body line, mount points and all other essential details were the same, I dug in. Remove the donor panel FIRST. If anything goes horribly wrong, I still have my original door. Using a hammer, two different sized screwdrivers, a pair of pliers and a drill with my Eastwood weld-cutter I cut out the welds, and carefully peeled back the bottom and one side of the door edge to about 90°. The other end I lifted, but only enough to pop it loose.
In some areas the lip is quite wide and will lift easily. In others, there is maybe 1/4" width wrapped around the edge, and those were the most challenging to peel back. My biggest concern was distorting the metal on the front side of the panel when I lifted the edge. I can safely say this is unavoidable. It didn't happen in all places and it wasn't severe in any, but it did require a small amount of filler to true up the edge when reinstalled.
As it turns out, this was not to be the biggest concern after all. When you take sheet metal and put a 180° tight radius bend in it, it work hardens the metal at the bend. When you attempt to take that bend out, or when you attempt to put it back in again, you can (and likely will) split the seam.
In my case, 3/4 of the bottom and roughly a third of one end split and separated. This required welding the seam. Now I'm no expert welder, but since I didn't notice the issue until after I permanently removed the original door skin, I didn't have much choice but to make it work. Using low heat I just worked moving around a lot so as to not distort the panel and just gave it a little zap until I dotted everything together. A little work with the grinder, and it was stitched up. This really wasn't that hard, just time consuming and a bit stressful.
The unfortunate part of having to do this (beyond the extra work of having to weld it up) was it all had to be clamped up which meant I had some additional putty work to do at the edge. Still, when all is said and done, the door looks so much better than the other panel ever could have, with considerably less filler. Actually probably less that you would need for your typical door of this age. As an added bonus, I didn't have to remove/transfer the door tag to a new door and the rivets remain unaltered. Not a huge deal for me, but that might be more of a consideration if your vehicle is rare or you would like to preserve provenance.
When I do the next door, I promise lots of pictures and more details on how it was done. Hopefully it will provide you with enough info to do this yourself if you have been on the fence about tackling something like this.
So why didn't I just bite the bullet and buy it instead of messing around with all of the body work? Because the donor door is from a 4-door hardtop, so there are no window frames. That means I either have to move my window frames, or I have to reskin the original door.
Since my doors are very solid, and the only rust I have in any of the doors is a small hole in the corner of the door skin, and because it looks like there are a lot of ways to have things go wrong moving the frame, I opted to reskin.
Now I'll start by saying I didn't take pictures of this door, but I will be doing the DS rear door as well, and will document the work I do to that one. It will be a little harder due to the shape, so it will be a better subject. Anyhow, here's what was involved!
After looking over both doors about a dozen times to make sure measurements, body line, mount points and all other essential details were the same, I dug in. Remove the donor panel FIRST. If anything goes horribly wrong, I still have my original door. Using a hammer, two different sized screwdrivers, a pair of pliers and a drill with my Eastwood weld-cutter I cut out the welds, and carefully peeled back the bottom and one side of the door edge to about 90°. The other end I lifted, but only enough to pop it loose.
In some areas the lip is quite wide and will lift easily. In others, there is maybe 1/4" width wrapped around the edge, and those were the most challenging to peel back. My biggest concern was distorting the metal on the front side of the panel when I lifted the edge. I can safely say this is unavoidable. It didn't happen in all places and it wasn't severe in any, but it did require a small amount of filler to true up the edge when reinstalled.
As it turns out, this was not to be the biggest concern after all. When you take sheet metal and put a 180° tight radius bend in it, it work hardens the metal at the bend. When you attempt to take that bend out, or when you attempt to put it back in again, you can (and likely will) split the seam.
In my case, 3/4 of the bottom and roughly a third of one end split and separated. This required welding the seam. Now I'm no expert welder, but since I didn't notice the issue until after I permanently removed the original door skin, I didn't have much choice but to make it work. Using low heat I just worked moving around a lot so as to not distort the panel and just gave it a little zap until I dotted everything together. A little work with the grinder, and it was stitched up. This really wasn't that hard, just time consuming and a bit stressful.
The unfortunate part of having to do this (beyond the extra work of having to weld it up) was it all had to be clamped up which meant I had some additional putty work to do at the edge. Still, when all is said and done, the door looks so much better than the other panel ever could have, with considerably less filler. Actually probably less that you would need for your typical door of this age. As an added bonus, I didn't have to remove/transfer the door tag to a new door and the rivets remain unaltered. Not a huge deal for me, but that might be more of a consideration if your vehicle is rare or you would like to preserve provenance.
When I do the next door, I promise lots of pictures and more details on how it was done. Hopefully it will provide you with enough info to do this yourself if you have been on the fence about tackling something like this.
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